  
 The "I dare you" 2008 Bordeaux vintage
Thierry Manoncourt, owner of Saint Emilion First Growth Figéac (L) : "I have never seen such a late harvest since the 1970's"
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For me the 2008 will go into history as
a three step "I dare you" vintage.
To produce an outstanding vintage Bordeaux needs excellent weather conditions. 2008 wasn't easy to produce. Spring and summer were far from ideal with frost in April and a wet period in July accounting for difficult flowering. August had a few ups and a lot of downs. Early September was chilly and wet. Actually we were afraid to be heading for a disaster. And then fortunately the weather changed. The second half of September and October were beautiful, warm and sunny.
   
I dare you -1-
 To harvest or not to harvest, that was the question. The Chateaux were faced with a difficult dilemma this fall: start harvesting with unripe fruit or wait and hope that the warm weather will last. They had to play I dare you with Mother Nature. If you wait and the weather deteriorates again and the rains come, you lose what is left of your crop. With the distinct advantage of hindsight we now know that those who waited,and waited and waited, and took the risk have won in this vintage. Those who lost their nerve in this exciting game with nature, produced green, hard and unpleasant wines. I have tasted them and I seriously doubt if they will ever become drinkable.
But the good news is that a large number of producers took all the risks and put in a lot of work to produce a small but excellent crop.
   
I dare you -2-
Futures prices of First Growth Mouton Rothschild
(sales prices from the negociants in Bordeaux without sales tax) |
2004 |
€ 96 |
2005 |
€ 360 |
2006 |
€ 330 |
2007 |
€ 240 |
2008 |
€ 120 |
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Money makes the world go round, even in Bordeaux. In the complex system of selling wine from this privileged region, coming out with your price is quite an issue. To understand this problem I will explain something about the prices of recent vintages. I'll concentrate on the First Growths. Maybe you are thinking that they are out of your league, but even then the First Growths remain important as they set the pace. When the First Growths come out high, the others follow, etc.
Coming our with your prices in a difficult market, in a financial crisis and with a weak dollar and an equally weak British Pound is not easy.
Baronesse Philippine de Rothschild: "Nothing wrong with the quality" |
The Bordeaux Chateaux knew they couldn't do right here. The quality of the wine is much better than the 2007 and their crops are much smaller. If they came out with high prices nobody would be buying. If they came out lower than 2007 and 2006, the wine trader's stocks of those vintages becomes "un sellable". The prices for Mouton Rothschild in the chart, speak for themselves.
Baronesse Philippine de Rothschild explained her prices: "It has nothing to do with quality and everything to do with the world market, which is in a very bad situation".
This year it was not one of the "Big Five" that took the lead.
Chateau Angélus from Saint Emilion, was the first to come out with a price. They came out on € 50 per bottle This price is 40% lower than 2007, which Hubert de Boüard released at € 85, and which is now selling for around € 125 a bottle on the open market.
   
I dare you -3-
Dr. Bertrand Nicolas of Chateau La Conseillante (right): "A very low yield but a good quality in 2008" |
To buy or not to buy, that's the question. In the good old days when the world still was flat and the trees were still made out of wood, the people who were buying futures were wine lovers and wine drinkers. They would buy wine while still in barrel at a small discount, paying two years before they would receive the wine. The chateaux would use this money to finance their stocks. Remember a winery has at any given time, two entire harvests in their cellars.
The system functioned like this possibly until the vintage 2000. And the (wine)world changed definitely after the spectacular 2005 vintage.
Bordeaux welcomes the wine world |
2005 had the highest futures price ever. Until last year the Mouton Rothschild 2005 was selling for over € 1300 a bottle. The chateaux were right in presuming that the market was ready to absorb higher prices.
Let's get back to the Mouton example. The 2005 that came out at € 360 sold for € 1000 more per bottle!
One cannot make the argument that it is the chateaux that make the prices go up like that. Yes I am defending the Bordeaux First Growths here. My example of the Mouton proves my point with mathematical certainty.
Should we buy?
If you are buying to speculate, I would stay away from this vintage. If you are a wine lover who wants to drink the wine in due course, then the 2008 offers some very nice possibilities. Great, sometimes excellent wine for reasonable prices... Remember, I am only giving my opinion here.
   
The 2008 vintage: Let's talk wine!
Margaret with with Florence Cathaird, tasting the excellent Smith Haut Lafitte |
Enough is said about the I dare you aspect of the vintage. Margaret and I have attended the professional futures tastings. Later we made a special trip to taste the First Growths. To be quite honest I didn't have high expectations. The summer was not like it should have been. A vintage like 2008 would have been a disaster if it had happened some 20 years ago. Knowledge, skill and modern technology played an important role this year, but the main difference was in the vineyards. Like I explained in "I dare you 1", courage paid off in 2008.
My verdict? Some are exceptional!
The tastings
The tastings for a new vintage are organized by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB). Traditionally the First Growths do not participate. They present their wines at their chateaux and are open by reservation only.
To make things practical for the tasters, the other tastings are grouped.
Tristan Kressmann of Chateau LaTour Martillac: "I am very excited about the quality of this vintage". |
Left Bank
The Pessac-Léognan were presented at Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte.
Further North the Médoc, Haut Médoc, Moulis and Listac wines were presented at Chateau Chasse Spleen.
The wines from the Margaux appellation were tasted at Chateau Marquis de Terme. The Saint Julien, Pauillac and St Estèphe were presented at Chateau Branaire Ducru, where we enjoyed an excellent lunch.
To keep things practical the golden wines of the Sauternes are traditionally presented in the Médoc as well. This year it was at Chateau Dauzac.
Right Bank
The Saint Emilion Grand Cru wines were tasted at Chateau Figéac. For the Pomerols we were invited at Chateau La Conseillante.
Our verdict
Robert Parker is releasing his notes as I am writing this vintage special. Parker compares 2008 with mythical vintages like 2000 and even 2005.
I dare to differ with the "Emperor of Wine" because I am living in Bordeaux and he apparently isn't.
Oops did I say that? Well, we know for a few centuries that we need sunshine to make great wines. And where was the sun in 2008?
I explained in my introduction how wine growers had to wait for the sun. Those who did, saved the vintage. Those who didn't, didn't.
In 2005 one had to put in an effort to produce a bad wine. In 2008 we had to put in every effort to produce a good and sometimes excellent wine. But the weather was definitely NOT like 2005....
Like I said earlier, I am by no means Robert Parker but still we have have tasted and rated the wines on a 20 point scale: 0 being very bad and 20 points being exceptional.
The notes are not RP (Robert Parker), but RR (Ronald Rens).
The 2008 First Growths
 
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
Erwan le Brozec of Mouton Rothschild: "It took us quite an effort in 2008 to reach this level of concentration". |
Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild (17.5 points)
Lighter in color than many of the other Pauillacs. On the nose there is an explosion of aroma's of red fruits and a hint of pepper. Loads of fruit in the mouth with soft round tannins. A beautiful balance. It looks like the Petit Mouton is developing even further every year.
(94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild (18.5 points)
The Mouton needed some time to open up but after having given it some time (and some swirling around) the wine opened up beautifully. A complex nose displaying expressive black (blackcurrant) fruits and typical peppery hints. In the mouth it showed a full-bodied wine with an exceptional purity of flavors and a very rich fruit. An elegant wine with great balance in the acidity. "Very good", I wrote in my tasting notes.
(83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot)
Aile d'Argent, the white wine of Mouton Rothschild (18 points).
As there is no white Pauillac this is an appellation Bordeaux. A light pale color. On the nose there is an explosion of fresh fruits. A beautiful balance in the acidity. on the palate there is a bit less fruit and complexity as compared to the 2007.
Chateau Haut Brion
 Chateau Haut Brion (19.5 points)
Just 35% of the harvest made it into le Grand Vin in 2008. The production of 7.000 cases will be the smallest ever in the long history of the chateau. The normal production is about 12.000 cases. The blend of the 2008 is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc. The deep purple, almost inky color of the wine are the first signs of the spectacular concentration of Haut Brion. It is a classic, elegant wine with strong but soft tannins. Loads of fruit like cassis, black currant and blueberry. There is tobacco and licorice. The wine stays with you for minutes. A great success for the Delmas team. This wine will outlive us all!
Chateau Lafite Rothschild
Chateau Lafite Rothschild (19.5 - 20 points)
This is without a doubt the most impressive barrel sample I ever tasted. Frederique Domingo, who conducted the tasting at the chateau asked me: "et alors", what do you think? I make my tasting notes in Dutch and keep them to myself during tastings. I showed Frederique the last word I had just written: BRAVO! This sums it all up up for me.
The wine was deep dark, almost black. It took some swirling of the glass, but then the wine opened up in a spectacular way. This exceptional wine showed powerful tannins and a strong expression of blackcurrant, licorice, and a hint of cigar box and tobacco. This powerful wine stayed with you like I have never tasted in a barrel sample.
Frederique explained in all modesty, that this quality was the result of a rigorous selection in the vineyards an excellent technical analysis and of course the technical improvements that have been made over the last 25 years.
Be that as it may, I like to sum it up with: Bravo!
83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc
Chateau Margaux
 Pavilion Rouge de Chateau Margaux (17.5 points)
A beautiful clear ruby purple color. The wine is aromatically very floral and has a very perfumed nose that is typical for Margaux. An elegant structure with a balance in red fruit and soft velvety tannins. Is this way better than "just a second wine"!
(68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc)
Chateau Margaux, Grand Vin(18.5 points)
Color similar to the Pavilion but more dense. Loads of fresh (red)fruit on the nose. Good structure and great mouth feel. Loads of red and black fruit. A very elegant wine with an exemplary complexity and finesse.
(87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 1.5% Cabernet Franc, and 1.5% Petit Verdot)
Pavillion Blanc (18 points)
To create this white wine, Chateau Margaux rejected 55% of their harvest; but it was worth their while. A great Sauvignon Blanc with a good minerality and lots of fruit. Citrus fruit like grapefruit, but also hints of melon, peach and pineapple. The wine seemed to stay with you forever. Very long indeed. Wonderful complexity.
(100% Sauvignon Blanc)
Chateau Latour
 Le Pauillac de Latour (17.5 points).
A deep color with an exciting fresh nose. The fruit seems to jump out of the glass. In the mouth the freshness continues with nice round tannins. An impressive wine considering it is "only" a third wine. (45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 55% Merlot).
Les Forts de Latour (18 points)
Color purple red, but not like ink. This rich second wine had a strong presence of fruit like red raspberries, cassis but also black pepper and spices. Strong tannins from the oak. It is always one of my favorites because it combines complexity without being unapproachable. (66.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31.5% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot).
Chateau Latour, Grand Vin (19 points).
A massive purple wine. The wine took a while before opening to the nose but then it showed its real character with (blackcurrant)fruit and hints of coffee and of course oak. Great tannins in an exceptional balance. A strong, long lasting, masculine and complex wine.
(94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot)
2008 my verdict
Medoc
Tasted at Chateau Marquis de Terme, Chateau Branaire Ducru and at
Chateau Chasse Spleen |
Batailley, Pauillac, 5th Growth
Belgrave, Haut Medoc, 5th Growth
Beychevelle, St Julien 4th Growth
Branaire-Ducru, St Julien 4th Gr
Brane-Cantenac, Margaux, 2nd G
Camensac, Haut Medoc, 5th Growth
Cantemerle, Haut Medoc, 5th Gr
Cantenac Brown, Margaux, 3rd Gr
Chasse-Spleen, Moulis Cru excep
Clerc-Milon, Pauillac, 5th Growth
Cos Labory, Sth Esrephe, 5th Gr
d'Armailhac, Pauillac, 5th Growth
Du Tertre, Margaux, 5th Growth
Giscours Margaux, 3rd Growth
Gruaud Larose, St Julien 2th Growth
Kirwan, Margaux, 3rd Growth
La Lagune, Haut Medoc, 3rd Growth
La Tour Carnet, Haut Medoc, 4th Gr
La Tour de By, Medoc Cru Bourgeois
Lafon Rochet, St Estephe, 4th Gr
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17
16
16,5
16
16
16
15,5
15,5
15,5
16,5
16
17,5
17
16,5
16
16,5
16,5
16
16
16
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Lagrange, St Julien 3rd Growth
Langoa Barton, St Julien, 4th Growth
Lascombes, Margaux, 2nd Growth
Léoville Barton, St Julien 2th Growth
Léoville Poyferré, St Julien 2th Gr
Lynch Moussas, Pauillac 5nd Growth
Lynch-Bages, Pauillac 5nd Growth
Malescot St-Exupery, Margx 3rd Gr
Marquis de Terme, Margaux,
Maucaillou, Moulis
Pichon Baron, Pauillac 2nd Growth
Pichon Comtesse, Pauillac 2nd Gr
Pontet Canet, Pauillac 5nd Growth
Poujeaux, Moulis
Prieuré-Lichine, Margaux, 4th Gr
Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux, 2nd Gr
Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2nd Growth
Saint Pierre Saint Julien 4th Growth
Talbot, Saint Julien 4th Growth
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16,5
16
17,5
17
17,5
16
16,5
16,5
16
15
18
17
17
16
17
15,5
16,5
16,5
16
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| Daniel Cathiard of Chateau Smith Haut-Lafite: "We harvested 3 weeks later than usual". |
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| Arnauld de la Fiolie of Chateau Laniote cracks one of his jokes at Margaret |
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Pessac-Léognan
Tasted at Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte |
| Red |
White |
Bouscaut
Carbonnieux
Carmes Haut Brion
Chantegrive
Chevalier
Fieuzal
Haut Bailly
La Louviere
Larrivet-Haut-Brion
Latour-Martillac
Malartic-Lagravière
Olivier
Pape Clement
Smith Haut Lafitte
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15,5
16,5
16
15,5
16
15,5
17
16
17
16,6
16,5
16,5
18,5
17
|
Bouscaut
Carbonnieux
Chantegrive
Chevalier
Fieuzal
La Louviere
Larrivet-Haut-Brion
Latour-Martillac
Malartic-Lagravière
Olivier
Pape Clement
Smith Haut Lafitte
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16
17
15,5
17
17
16
16
16,5
16,5
16,5
18
17,5
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All work and no play!
Ronald shares a moment with Eric d'Aramon of Chateau Figéac |
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| Alexandre Thienpont of Vieux Chateau Certan makes the point that low yields were necessary to create a great wine |
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Right Bank
Tasted at Chateau Figéac and La Conseillante |
| Saint Emilion |
Pomerol |
Angélus
Balestard de la Tonelle
Beau-Séjour Bécot
Canon La Gaffelière
Cap de Mourlin
Cheval Blanc
Clos Fourtet
Figéac
Franc-Mayne
La Gaffelière
Laniote
Pavie-Macquin
Petit Cheval de Cheval Blanc
Troplong Mondot
Trotevieille
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18,5
16,5
17
16,5
17
18,5
17,5
18
15,5
16
16,5
16,5
17
18
17,5
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Beauregard
Clinet
Gazin
La Conseillante
La Croix de Gay
Le Bon Pasteur
Petit Village
Vieux Chateau Certan
La Feur de Boüard
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16
17
17,5
18
17
18
17
18,5
16,5
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Join us in September on a Bordeaux Wine Tour
 Of course tasting is better than reading when it comes to enjoying great wines. I invite you all to join us to tour Bordeaux with us. So check out our 2009 tour schedule. There still are some spots for September. Contact us today for a detailed itinerary and more information!
Our bordeaux Wine tour schedule for September :
§ The Grand Tour of Bordeaux 2009
August 31 - September 5, 2009 (still open for booking)
§ The Bordeaux Harvest Tour 2009
September 21– September 26, 2009 (last 2 spots available, just 1 couple)
 Your Tour host and Bordeaux Wine Expert and Wine Writer:
Ronald Rens, M. Sc., Wine Master
Guests that join us on our tours are both wine and food lovers and usually this is their first trip to the Bordeaux region. We have tastings at First Growths like Mouton, Yquem, Margaux and Haut Brion; Second Growths like Pichon Baron, Léoville Baron and Léoville Las Cazes and many many more.
When you tour with The Bordeaux Wine Experience, you taste more Classified Growths than on any other Bordeaux wine tour!
There is more than "just" the wine!
 Meet Chateau owners and Wine makers! We are invited into chateaux, see art collections and visit unique and private gardens.
We indulge in meals at restaurants varying from typical local cuisine to Michelin-rated tables. And of course live the very special experience of eating in private dining rooms of some wonderful Bordeaux Chateaux.
So you see, it's not just a wine tour but a real Bordeaux Wine Experience!
Remember we want to keep things personal. That's why we only organize tours for small groups and tailor made trips. A small group from our perspective is a maximum of ten people. That’s just you and four other couples! These tours are 6 days, 5 nights. All our tours start as of one couple.
I invite you to contact us today for a detailed itinerary and more information!
Download a free report on the 2005 Cru Bourgeois
 I-wine review contacted us because they wanted to offer you access to their data base. The very interesting report on the 2005 Cru Bourgeois you can download by clicking here. The International Wine Review (IWR) was launched in 2005 to provide the wine trade (importers, distributors, retailers, sommeliers) and wine enthusiasts, with current, accurate information regarding important wines and regions of the world. The publication is not just a list of wines with scores; it provides insight and understanding of viticulture and wine making, appellations, wine styles, pairing food and wine, and market issues. Click here to go to the very informative website.
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