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Read about:
v The vintage 2009 a sneak preview
v Dinner at Angélus
v Bordeaux Wine Tours:
Exclusive? Maybe. Limited? For sure!
v What Ronald has been drinking this month
v Book review: Wine
v How to drink First Growths for free
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Ronald congratulates Michel Portos with his second Michelin star for the Saint James restaurant, a must on all our tours |
Dear Wine Lover,
Hold your horses for the Bordeaux 2009! The vintage 2005 was exceptional but the 2009 is even much better!
I have been following the Bordeaux wine world for over 25 year now. Never before have I witnessed a more perfect harvest than this year's.
I have already tasted the juices and I can tell you that the vintage 2009 is going to be spectacular here in Bordeaux. You can read my first comments on this brand new top vintage.
Two Michelin stars for Michel Portos
We congratulate Michel Portos with his second Michelin star. You can taste his great creations as an unforgettable dinner at the Saint James Restaurant is included in all our week tours.
Over 20.000 subscribers!!!
Thanks to you we remain the world's fastest growing Bordeaux Newsletter. Thanks for your help in reaching the 20.000 subscriber mark. Please continue to subscribe your friends family and other Bordeaux Wine Lovers here, because it's fun, it's easy and it’s free!
| Quote of the month: |
"The '09 vintage has been the perfect vintage"
- Christian Moueix of Chateau Petrus |
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Newsletter Gala Issue (part 2)
Last month I told you about our experiences at the most prestigious Vinexpo dinner at First growth Lafite Rothschild. This time I will be telling you about the most exclusive Vinexpo dinner at Chateau Angélus. So bear with me for some more pictures in tuxedo and some great Bordeaux Wine Experiences at this unique Saint Emilion First Growth....
Book review: Wine
There are some great new books on wine hitting the shelves this season. In this newsletter I will review André Dominé's new book, aptly called Wine. If you are looking for a wine lover's gift for the upcoming holiday season, this might be it.
Bordeaux Wine Tours 2010: Limited spots available
And I will tell you about the Tours we have planned for you for next year. Remember we just conduct four of these tours per year and there are only 12 spots left for 2010. See the Bordeaux Wine Tour Schedule for the dates for the upcoming season.
TheBordeaux WineBlog # 3 in the world list
 Thanks to your help my BordeauxWineBlog is now #3 in the world list of wine blogs. To be number 2 in this list I need another 600 votes. Please help us in two clicks and vote! It's easy and it's free. Thanks very much for your continuing support.
Pierre Lurton of Chateau Yquem (R):
“Possibly our best vintage since 1893.” |
I hope you'll enjoy reading this Newsletter and I look forward to hearing from you soon (Ronald@BXWINEX.com).
Don’t drink
anything I wouldn't drink!
Cheers from Bordeaux,
Ronald Rens, M. Sc., Wine Master
Wine writer and President
The Bordeaux Wine Experience
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The Vintage 2009, a sneak preview
Many chateau owners are thrilled at the possibility of the exceptional vintage being the best in the last 60 years due to perfect weather conditions, overshadowing the almost perfect 2005.
Here are some quotes:
Chateau Margaux director Paul Pontallier: "With the excellence of this vintage, we are feeling very positive".
Chateau Cheval Blanc director Pierre Lurton:
"I would even say that our 2009 is going to be superior to the 2005".
Chateau Branaire-Ducru owner Patrick Maroteaux "the 2009 vintage is "exceptional, it is the best in the last 20 or 30 years".
Château Pétrus owner Christian Moueix:
"Aside from a hail storm in May, 2009 was perfect.
We had rain when we needed it, and sun all the time."
Ronald enjoying his first sip of the 2009 with Arnaud de la Filolie, owner of Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé Chateau Laniote |
It is not just the people from the chateaux that are positive. I personally believe that the 2009
Bordeaux vintage is going to be one of the best on record. Most experts agree that they would need to check the records of the weather conditions in the 1940s to find out a better weather. Growers feel that the mix of fine days and cool, dry nights in the final days before harvesting started last month, has been the finest since 1949.
The cool nights stopped the grapes from over-ripening. July and August were ideal because of hot and sunny days. Drought conditions for a short while threatened the ripening of grapes and development of crucial tannins to help age the wines, but the rains came to the rescue just in time.
Our guests at the Bordeaux Harvest Tour tasted the berries at Margaux, Haut Brion and many other chateaux. We could all vouch for the sweetness and the ripeness of the grapes.
The other day I tasted the Merlot and the Cabernet from the fermenting tanks at Chateau Laniote in Saint Emilion. To be quite honest, I was surprised by the sweetness and the quality. Write me down for the futures on this vintage!
 Dinner Millésimes de Collection at Chateau Angélus,
"Welcome at Chateau Angélus":
Jean Bernard Grenié (L) in English and Hubert de Boüard de Laforest (R) in French |
It has been a tradition since 1999 for the owners of the First Growths from Saint Emilion to come together for a dinner during Vinexpo. All owners bring bottles directly from their cellars. Not just any bottles, no they bring bottles that make collector's dreams come true, hence the name of this dinner: Diner Millésimes de Collection, The Dinner of the Collectible vintages.
All owners bring exceptional bottles of vintages or bottle sizes you won't easily find on the market anymore.
In his welcome speech, Angélus co-owner Hubert de Boüard de Laforest explained how his family had arrived in Saint Emilion in 1909. The dinner marked their 100 year's presence in the region.
I will tell you about the four elements that made this evening an unforgettable experience for me:
-the setting
-the people
-the food
-and of course the wines
The Setting
Ronnie Kole showing his special tuxedo lining to Thierry and Marie-France Manoncourt of Chateau Figéac |
Black tie and evening dresses were requested on the invitation for this dinner. The evening started in the courtyard behind the Chateau with an apéritif with Champagne Krug Grande Cuvée served from magnums. When dinner was sounded, we were all awed by the way the Angelus barrel hall was dressed up all in white. Even the floor was covered with white carpeting, just for the occasion.
I was flattered to find myself at the Angélus table with on one side of me the co-owner of Angélus Jean Bernard Grenié. On my other side I swapped wine stories with top entertainer and jazz legend Ronnie Kole.
The People
The dinner was held in the presence of all the owners of the Saint Emilion First Growths with their special friends as well as many of the world's most important wine journalists (no, RP wasn't there, but RR was...)
 Jean Bernard Grenié (R): “Ronald is the most Bordelais of all the Dutch in Bordeaux.” |
 With my good friend and fellow Bordeaux connoisseur Panos Kakaviatos (R) |
At this dinner, the Groupement de Premiers Grands Crus Classés de Saint Emilion changed presidency.
Chateau Angélus co-owner Hubert de Boüard de Laforest took over from Eric d'Aramon of Chateau Figéac,
who had been president since 1996. He regretted in his speech having to resign. He is going to dedicate all his time to Chateau Figéac.
Eric d'Aramon of Chateau Figéac:" People are like wines: they come and they go" |
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest of Chateau Angélus: "a 100 year's presence in St. Emilion" |
Eric d'Aramon thanking chef Michel Troisgros for an excellent dinner |
The food
A stressful honour it would seem to me. Being asked to prepare the actual food for a dinner like this. The wine naturally has to be the centerpiece of the evening. All dishes need to not only "go with the wines", but should bring out the best in them.
This year it was Michel Troisgros, the talented 3 Michelin star chef of the restaurant Maison Troisgros, who oversaw the cooking.
The six course tasting menu included dishes such as "Charlotte à la truffe et à l'asperge" (a cake made of truffles and asparagus), "Homard de Bretagne au Saint Emilion et à l'épine vinette" (lobster) and my personal favorite: "Pigeonneau, foie gras et truffe, frits à la Kiev" (pigeon with foie gras and truffle). The food was excellent, and the wines were spectacular!
  
The Wines
During a dinner like this you will usually taste wines from all First Growths that are present. That's why the wines are served in flights of two or three wines per dish. In the table you can see all five flights and the vintages plus bottle sizes.
   
I will give you my favorites of the evening, sorted by decade:
The nineties: Angélus 1990 (from double Magnum).
The eighties: Cheval Blanc 1988 (from Magnum)
The seventies: Canon 1979 and the Belair 1975, both from Magnum
The sixties:
The great La Gaffelière 1966 and the superb Figéac 1964
The fifties: The wonderful Trottevieille 1955, the sole competitor, and a great wine.
Wines tasted at the "Diner Millésimes de Collection" at Chateau Angélus |
Champagne Krug Grande Cuvée
(from Magnum)
|
|
Chateau Pavie 1999
|
. |
Chateau Canon 1979
(from Magnum) |
Chateau Belair 1975
(from Magnum) |
. |
Chateau Beau-Séjour
Bécot 1989 |
Chateau Beauséjour 1978
(from Magnum) |
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1988
(from Magnum) |
Chateau La Gaffelière 1966
|
Chateau Figéac 1964
|
Chateau Trottevieille 1955
|
Chateau Angélus 1990
(from double Magnum)
|
Clos Fourtet 1990
(from Magnum) |
. |
  My personal favorites were the oldies. If you have seen my cellar you know that I prefer older wines.
The winners of the evening were without a doubt the Chateau Figéac 1964
and the Chateau Trottevieille 1955.
Although both were great, we all agreed that the winner of the evening was yet again Figéac! Why yet again? Because in 2007 Figéac stole the show at the same dinner with their impressive 1950 vintage. Thierry Manoncourt at the great old age of 91 years, again brought the most remarkable wine of the evening.
 Thierry Manoncourt teaches Ronnie Kole to end a concert with a bang! |
You can read more about the Figéac 1964 in "What Ronald has been drinking this month".
It is always a moving experience to drink such old wines. The 1955 Trottevieille was made before I was even born. This thought alone literally gives you goose bumps. You just drink history!
That Monsieur Manoncourt's wines helps people age gracefully, was proven by him personally: he finished Ronnie Kole's concert with his toe!
Our Bordeaux Wine Tours: Exclusive? Maybe. Limited? For sure!
 Unique experiences that's what we strive for. We tasted an impressive 45 Classified Growths on September's Bordeaux Harvest Tour. We tasted 67 different wines! Please click here to see all wines we tasted. Of course tasting is better than reading when it comes to enjoying great wines. In 2010 there are just 12 spots left to tour Bordeaux with us. So check out the tour schedule. Contact us today for a detailed itinerary and more information!
Read what our guests of these tours have to say:
 We had high expectations for this trip and felt a bit uncomfortable having brought two couples along. Our high expectations were exceeded in every way. We learned a great deal and had such great wines and food that we will always remember our visit here. It was so special eating in the chateaus interacting with people who were so passionate and gracious. I just can't think of anything that could have made it more enjoyable. You obviously have an amazing fund of knowledge about wine and we all truly enjoyed your entertaining stories, and your gracious hospitality.
Many thanks,
Lee and Kazi A,
Iowa City, IA, USA
 "This program was even better than we expected. Specially me, Leila, I have learned things about grapes, wine French culture and so on. So, I hope you continue to be such great persons who know how to approach different people from different countries. And we hope that more Brazilians like us will come to join this Wine Experience here in Bordeaux".
Muito obrigado
Leila and Eude da C
Manaus AM Brazil
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 What Ronald has been drinking this month...
The best improve with age...
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The Best Bordeaux:
This time the wine just had to come from Saint Emilion because we tasted so many great wines here. Techically it wasn't this month but my choice for the best must go to the superb Chateau Figéac 1964.
The color was clear and light brick as was to be expected after 45 year of ageing.
This spectacular wine showed an exceptional complex nose with notes of spice, and blackberry. The wine had subtle aroma's of cedarwood, coffee and spices. I was surprised to still find so much fruitiness and tannins in this wine.
Thank you very much Thierry Manoncourt for sharing this great wine with us.
Again a trully memorable night and a unique Bordeaux Wine Experience!
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The best "non Bordeaux" wine:
At a recent dinner party we were surprised by a Spanish wine The Duron Crianza 2004 from the Ribera del Duero. This winegrowing region has been made famous by the Vega-Sicilia and especially the Unico, the Spanish pendant of a First Growth.
That the Ribera del Duero can produce both excellent and affordable wines proves the Duron Crianza 2004.
We tasted this fruity wine blind from a decanter. The wine showed a medium deep purple color. On the nose there were loads of fruits like cherries, blackberry, raspberry and plum.
The wine expressed toasty notes and hints of ripe berries. The well structured wine showed nice fresh tannins.
Thank you Claudia and Thierry for introducing this wine to us.
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Book review: "Wine" by André Dominé
 A Jeroboam of Winebooks! For those who want to know it all, André Dominé has created a book that both novice and experienced wine lovers will enjoy. Dominé is an award winning German wine writer who lives in a wine village in the South of France.
Wine, an introduction to the world of wine, covers the wines of France, South Africa, Italy, Germany, China and dozens of other countries and regions. The book is a fabulous resource for finding information about wines, wine regions, as well as wine history. This is not commonly found in most wine books. Its large format and wealth of pages ensures that just about every topic you could be interested in will be covered here. The 926 page book is about the whole (wine)world. If you want to have it all in one cover this is the book for you. Of course allmost each wine region described, has entire books dedicated to it, so the information given is sometimes a bit concise. Bordeaux for example is covered in just 39 pages.
With over 1500 illustrations, maps and pictures I find the book as attractive as it is informative. A great gift for any wine lover. My rating: ***** (5 stars out of 5)
How to drink Fist Growths for free
James Fletcher:“things are looking good at the moment |
Drinking First Growths for free? Too good to be true? Not so says James Fletcher of Albany Wines who specializes in building wine portfolios for private investors:
“The underlying principals of wine investment boil down to supply and demand. With increased demand from China, we are seeing ever greater upward pressure on the prices of top Bordeaux . So drinking these wines for free is theoretically very simple: buy two cases, wait for them to double in value, sell one case back into the market and - tah dah! – the other comes gratis“
But is this upward trend in prices sufficient to enable this to occur? James would argue yes, and recent figures released into the market would seem to substantiate his optimistic position.
In order to double in value in a period of, say, five years, it would be necessary to achieve compound growth in the value of the wine of roughly 1.2% per month. The Liv-Ex index (wines FTSE, if you like) is up 10% so far this year – an average of 1.25% per month. Indeed this trend would appear to be accelerating as confidence returns to the market: 4.6% of this growth was realized between August-September alone.
Vintage |
Average Price Jan 09 |
Average Price Sept 09 |
Percentage Increase |
1996 |
£5,938 |
£8,529 |
43.6% |
1998 |
£3,485 |
£5,474 |
57.1% |
2000 |
£8,533 |
£13,937 |
63.3% |
2001 |
£2,236 |
£4,230 |
89.18% |
2008 |
£1,700 (June) |
£4,491 |
164.18% |
James is anxious to stress an amount of caution though; “things are looking good at the moment, but you only have to look to the latter half of ’08 for a wake up call to the fact that prices can drop, as well as rise. But, all things being equal, the finest offerings from the First Growth producers, especially those from the best vintages, tend to rise significantly over time”. But can they double in value in five years? “In my experience; yes, absolutely – for example, in ’03 I was selling Lafite ‘96 at around £2,500. By ’08 it was trading at around £8,000”.
So there you have it: First Growth Bordeaux for free. So what are you waiting for?
For more information: Albany Portfolio Management.
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Cheers from Bordeaux,
Ronald and Margaret Rens
   
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