Inside First Growth Haut Brion (part 2)
In the first part of our interview Delmas emphasized on terroir and how he as the estate manager of a famous First Growth absolutely has no excuse whatsoever when he might fail. The pressure to perform is extremely high. We also discussed the influence of critics and ratings.
This second part Delmas tells us about one of Bordeaux’s hidden gems: The Haut Brion Blanc, the white wine produced by this estate and we get to talk about his own cellar.
Asked about the white wine of Haut Brion, Delmas delves again in the rich history of the chateau:
Haut Brion white is different
At the Chateau we don’t have all historical information on our whites; our documentation just starts at the beginning of the 19th Century. One of the previous owners was also the owner of a property in Sauternes (Bastor Lamontagne). It was this family that planted a large proportion of Sémillion at Haut Brion. Nobody knows whether they tried to make Sauternes at Haut Brion (which isn’t very likely because of the climate) or that they wanted to make a dry white wine that had some elements of a Sauternes. Anyhow, since the beginning of the 19th Century we continue making the dry white wine of Haut Brion with a majority of Sémillion. In this aspect we are probably unique. Maybe that’s why our whites, like a Sauternes, can age so well. Our white wine even ages like a Sauternes; not just the color (from light to dark, RR), but also the aroma’s follow the same development while ageing.
To classify or not to classify?
Barrel samples of the spectacular Haut Brion and
La Mission Haut Brion 2009 vintage
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Why our white wines aren’t classified? Well the 1855 Classification was about the red wines. Of course our whites could have been classified in 1953 for the Graves classification. But they were never presented for classification. The Chateau was loosing money at the time and participating in another classification would have created even more costs. So the owners at the time reasoned: Why bother, we only have four ha (10 acres). Will the classification ever be revised? I doubt it; after all the problems there were in Saint Emilion in 2006 and in the Médoc with the Cru Bourgeois… I don’t feel that there is a lot of enthusiasm to change classifications in Bordeaux at this time.
100 points or even 120 points?
Do we have to change the 100 point scale? You are not alone to ask this question: all critics have the same problem. We have made so much progress in wine making and everybody has reduced yields etc. that wines rated 96 points out of 100 today would compare with a score of 108 on 100 for a wine in the nineteen eighties. If you want to stay in line with previous ratings, many wines from 2005 and 2009 would need a rating of 120 if not higher. This probably is not possible. Many critics told me that with the 2009 vintage, they tasted the best wines many properties have ever produced.
Not just Haut Brion in the cellar
No, in my own cellar I have wines form everywhere. Obviously I have a lot of Bordeaux but I have a keen interest in other wine growing regions and other grape varieties. I must admit that I have a lot of Champagnes in my cellar. At my personal dinner parties I like to play around with whites and reds from all over the world, but we always start with Champagne. I haven’t found another wine to match Champagne so you need an ample stock…
In my cellar I have wines from the other great wine regions in France, but also wines from both North and South America. I have maybe a dozen bottles from South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Why so little? I don’t know it is just the way it is. I have more wines from Italy than from Spain, for no particular reason either. My only problem with wines from other regions or countries is: my wife. She really prefers Bordeaux so there you go, that’s what we drink mostly at dinner.
Best wine ever
I my line of work it is a privilege to taste so many great wines. There are wines that you’ll always remember. Regarding Haut Brion, for me the perfect one was the 1959, made by my grandfather. For me this is a wine that has everything and at the same time not too much of anything. It is my reference in wine. Why? Because we want to make a rich and concentrated wine and the challenge is to keep balance. It this sense the 2009 resembles my favorite Haut Brion 1959.
Renovations at Haut Brion
As you have noticed Haut Brion receives its visitors at La Mission Haut Brion because of the renovations. Our wines are nowadays considered luxury products and we feel that everything we do and where we work should be on the same level. We are renovating the offices but also the kitchen. And of course everything has to be ready before Vinexpo in June…
Like I said in my opening of this Magazine; Margaret and I will attend the Vinexpo opening dinner at Haut Brion. So we'll keep you posted.
Grands Crus Classes: The Great Wines of Bordeaux with
Recipes from Top Chefs of the World
A book review by Margaret Rens
On my coffee table or in my kitchen? I cannot decide where to keep my copy of Grands Crus Classes: The Great Wines of Bordeaux with Recipes from Top Chefs of the World by Sophie Brissaud. On my coffee table, this book is a celebration of the world-renowned wines of Bordeaux. Each of the 87 wines classified in 1855 as a Grands Crus Classés is described in detail and placed in the context of the beautiful vineyards and chateaux where they are produced. 60 red wines from the Medoc region and 27 wines from Sauternes offer you a trip to Bordeaux while remaining in the comfort of your own home. The beautiful pictures of the chateaux and vineyards offer you an inside look at the spirit and history of each chateau. The short descriptions by Sophie Brissaud provide you with more details of the history of each of the chateaux.
Each chateau is also presented with some key figures like surface, grape varieties and average age of the vines.
But this book could also be placed in my kitchen because the 2005 vintage of every property is carefully paired with an original recipe by a superstar chef such as Alice Waters, Charlie Trotter, Thomas Keller, Paul Bocuse, or Nobu Matsuhisa.

Michel Portos of the two star Saint James: Warm Foie Gras with Shellfisch, Saffron and Lemon on the Haut Bages Libéral
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Our favorite chef Michel Portos (2 stars) of the restaurant St James is also featured together with Chateau Haut Bages Liberal. Our guests get to experience his talent first hand during our tours. The meals at the Saint James restaurant are a highlight of all our Grand Tour and a great example of food and wine pairing.
I couldn’t help but notice that although the recipes in this book come from chefs all over the world, the first classified growths are all paired with a recipe from a French chef! I guess you musn’t experiment too much in the old world.
8 renowned sommeliers from all over the world have shared the task to taste and note each of the featured wines.
The recipes ask a high level of experience in the kitchen. The ingredients and techniques that are used are not ready available to most of us. But the photographs of the final result are mouth watering and inspiring. And I think that is what this book is all about. It is an inspiration to come up with your own pairing of wines and food. Having said that I will keep my copy on the coffee table. And there I will savour it with a glass of Bordeaux wine. Classified growth of course.
 What Ronald has been drinking this month...
The best improve with age...
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The Best Bordeaux:
We've tasted some wines from my own cellar this time. We organized a dinner party at our chateau and served an excellent Chateau Léoville Las Cases 1978 from my own personal cellar. This Super Second Growth from the Saint Julien appellation had aged very well. It was the first bottle from a case I bought at auction some time ago and I was curious as to its quality. The wine surprised us all by its color and presence of its tannins.
We served the wine blind in a decanter and all tasters thought that the wine was younger than its actual age. Beautiful round and soft tannins and delicate fragrances of black cherry and prune.
I must admit that I was more than happy with this purchase and the verdict of my wine friends was more than positive.
What a relief...
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The best "non Bordeaux" wine:
It is hard to match the cellars of our wine growing friends here in Bordeaux. They have cellars with treasures in them. One of the wines that are less known here in Bordeaux are the Vintage Ports. These great ageing wines from the Duro valley in Portugal tend to be quite the discovery at our dinner table, especially when served on the cheese. This time I a selected a Quinta do Noval 1982 Vintage port.
This wine is the product of a single vineyard, the famous Quinta do Noval Pinhão and was bottled in 1984.
The color was light and there were subtle aroma's of raisins and figs. The sweetness of the wine went very well with the Old Dutch Gouda cheese we served it with. We created some new Port aficionados that night...
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Mouton Rothschild label 2008: Both beauty and business

2008 Mouton Rothschild with a very special presentation |
For months I had been hearing the buzz about the 2008 label of Mouton packed with stories about a chinese artist. It is no secret that the Chinese fine wine market is booming. The number 8 in China has a special meaning. The word for "eight" sounds similar to the word which means "prosper" or "wealth". In regional dialects the words for "eight" and "fortune" are also similar.
The number 8 is considered so special that even being assigned a number with several eights is considered very lucky as the following examples show:
- A telephone number with all digits being eights was sold for USD$270,723.
- The opening ceremony of the Summer Olympics in Beijing began on 8/8/08 at 8 seconds and 8 minutes past 8 pm (local time).
- A license plate reading A88888 was offered for RMB 1.12 million (roughly USD164,000).
- The Petronas Twin Towers in Malaysia each have 88 Floors.
- The KLM route from Hong Kong to Amsterdam is Flight KL888
- The United Airlines route from San Francisco to Beijing is Flight UA 888.
Not just any label for a Mouton

Chinese artist Xu Lei, responsible for the Mouton 2008 label |
First Growth Mouton Rothschild has had a different artist design their labels since 1945. We have to go back to 1996 to find the first Chinese artist (Gu Gan) on one of their labels. The choice for the Chinese artist Xu Lei for the 2008 label turned out to be great for business: the 2008 vintage of Mouton doubled in value with this combination of the holy 8’s and the Chinese artwork.
I must say that I like this label very much. The delicate ink drawing shows Mouton’s famous ram standing between the two halves of the moon.
Xu Lei's ram asserts the role
of a great wine as a link between people and cultures, from one hemisphere to the
other of "planet wine".

Baroness Philippine de Rothschild handpicks each year the artwork for the Mouton labels |
Xu is artistic director of Today Art Museum, Beijing’s leading contemporary art gallery, and a graduate from the prestigious Nanjing Academy of Fine Arts.
Responsible for choosing the artists since the 1980s, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild,
the owner of Mouton, always respects their artistic freedom, though most of them are attracted by certain themes, such as the vine, the pleasure of drinking or the ram, the emblem of Mouton. The artists receive no fee for their work but are given cases of Mouton Rothschild, including of course "their" vintage.
The Mouton Rothschild Artists label series has seen artists labels such as Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Karel Appel, Andy Warhol – and even the Prince of Wales.
Our Bordeaux Wine Tours 2011: a spectacular program!
2010 will be a spectacular Bordeaux vintage. Why not see and taste it all for yourself? Join us for one of our tours in 2011 and you will be treated to a once in a lifetime experience. You will taste barrel samples of 2010 and older vintages of Bordeaux that have matured. You will visit famous First Classified Growths like Chateau Margaux and Lafite Rothschild. But you will also savour the best food as a special guest in the private dining rooms of Classified Growths. All this while having a lot of fun with a small group of other wine lovers like yourself!
If you don’t want to miss out on this unique opportunity I advise you to look into this now because our tours are filling up fast and two tours have almost sold out. As you probably know accommodation at our Chateau is limited to no more than six rooms (twin or double). So if you are really serious about touring and tasting these famous First Growths with me this summer you really need to look into this.
Let me give you a few of the tour highlights here:
- Visits and tastings at all five First Growths and Château d'Yquem!
- Accommodation at our privately owned 18th century chateau!
- Taste more Classified Growths than on any other Bordeaux wine tour!
- Grand Cru wines with all meals (except breakfast…); great food and a lot of fun!
- Gourmet meals at three Bordeaux Chateaux and in a famous Michelin two star restaurant!
- Grand Cru farewell dinner with all Grand Cru wines (including First Growth Mouton Rothschild and Superior First Growth Chateau d'Yquem!)
- A small group of 12 guests maximum (double or twin occupancy) and Expert
Guidance by yours truly.
Don’t risk missing out on this unique opportunity to see Bordeaux as an insider and click here to read more. Or just reply and we will email you a full Itinerary and all details.
If you reserve your spots quickly we’ll tour Bordeaux together this summer.
§ The Grand Tour of Bordeaux 2011
-May 23 - May 28, 2011 (last 4 spots available, just 2 rooms) and
-July 4 - July 9, 2011 (last 4 spots available, just 2 rooms) and
-September 5 - September 10 (Sold Out!)
-November 21 - November 26 (open for booking)
§ The Bordeaux Harvest Tour 2011
-September 26 – October 1, (open for booking)
All tours are 6 days, 5 nights and limited to 12 guests!
Tour price: € 3995 Euro (per person, double or twin occupancy)
Due to the exclusive nature of these tours, this program will sell out.
These last spots are highly sought after. So if you really are interested you should ask us to hold your spot now, because you don’t want to miss out on this great Wine Experience. So check out our tour schedule, or contact us now for a detailed itinerary and more information! !
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Good luck with these last few weeks of Winter and we look forward to seeing you all in Bordeaux in the near future!
Cheers from Bordeaux,
Ronald and Margaret Rens
   
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