The Vieux Logis in Tremolat, about an hour and a half from Chateau Coulon Laurensac

The Perigord, a Bordeaux Wine Tour extension with a smile

The Perigord, a Bordeaux Wine Tour extension with a smile

The smile of France

Ronald and Margaret enjoying the Perigord

The Dordogne River is lovingly nicknamed by the French the River of Hope or the Smile of France. Maybe that is what attracted us to the area 17 years ago when we bought our first property in France in the hilly area around Les Eyzies. Or maybe we where attracted by the vastness and wilderness of the landscape. Rocked edges, the meandering river and the beautiful green forests filled with wildlife, ceps and truffles. But maybe we should be honest and confess that what attracted us the most in this charming corner of France is the food. The meals in Dordogne are unbelievably good. Whether you shop at the market to cook yourself, share dinner with friends or neighbors or go to a restaurant, you’ll never be disappointed by the food on your plate. So when we had a weekend to ourselves last month the decision was quickly made to spend it down memory lane in Dordogne.

Vieux Logis

Vieux Logis

The drive to Dordogne from Bordeaux is already a beautiful one and after an hour we made our first stop in Perigueux. A quick stroll around the market to wet our appetite and we decided to have lunch in a small restaurant next to the cathedral called L’Essentiel. Like I said, we were not disappointed. As an amuse we were served a parmesan shortbread with a mushroom cream soup and ice-cream of Ceps. Hearty ice-cream! You have to dare. Very creative but more importantly very good. The rest of the meal was in complete accordance with the overture and we left the restaurant content and ready for our next destination.

The Vieux Logis

Truffles everywhere!

Truffles everywhere!

The hotel we picked was The Vieux Logis in Tremolat. Staying at Le Vieux Logis, is rather like going back to one’s family home, a domain where agriculture used to be at its heart (specializing in the tobacco trade). Dating back to the 16th and 17th century the buildings are now completely renovated and decorated in the most charming way. All 23 rooms have their own distinct personality and point of view. The ‘family, holiday, grandmother’s house’ atmosphere is preserved everywhere. The service is warm and personal to make you feel welcome.

Truffles, truffles and more truffles

Truffles, truffles and more truffles

We had booked a table for one of the Tapas evenings that the Vieux Logis features during the winter months. A special tasting menu is served of 10 different small courses (like the Spanish tapas). Since truffles were in season, truffles we tasted! One amuse, 3 appetizers, fish, game, cheese and 3 desserts later we had tantalized our taste buds to the max. My favorite dish wash the soft boiled egg with soldiers and truffle foam (I didn’t know you could improve on an egg, but yes you can!)

Taste and beauty

Taste and beauty

Ronald’s favorite was the foie gras poached in Bergerac wine. We both voted the cannelloni of Marron (chestnut) the best dessert of the three. Since we didn’t have to drive home but just had to cross the lawn to get to our room we enjoyed a final sip of brandy by the fireplace before turning in.

If you consider after a Bordeaux Wine Experience to continue your travels in the Dordogne area we can warmly recommend the Vieux Logis for your stay.

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